Strengthening EU Waste Legislation Through Local Collaboration and Producer Responsibility
As the EU prepares to implement key provisions of the revised Waste Framework Directive, including mandatory separate collection of textiles by January 2025, the Council of European Municipalities and Regions (CEMR) calls for urgent improvements to ensure fairness, clarity, and efficiency in textile waste management. Drawing from on-the-ground experience and policy best practices, particularly France’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme, CEMR offers targeted recommendations to close critical legislative gaps and empower local governments in achieving sustainable waste solutions.
1. Expand the Definition of Textile Waste
The current directive focuses narrowly on ‘household textiles,’ excluding significant sources of textile waste from commercial and institutional settings such as hotels, hospitals, restaurants, offices, and schools. CEMR recommends a broader, more inclusive definition of ‘textile waste’ that reflects its diverse origins and aligns with the Polluter-Pays Principle.
2. Clarify the Role of Social Enterprises
Social enterprises play a vital role in collection, sorting, reuse, and resale of textiles. These actors must be fully recognised within the waste legislation and EPR frameworks, with fair access to funding and partnership opportunities. Their unique contributions can enhance the circular economy while delivering strong social outcomes.
3. Strengthen Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for Textiles
a) Align Implementation Deadlines
There is currently a mismatch between the 2025 obligation for separate textile collection and the proposed EPR deadline, which may not come into effect until 2027 or 2028. CEMR calls for the EPR scheme to be implemented simultaneously with the collection obligation, and for producers to retroactively reimburse municipalities for collection-related costs from January 2025.
b) Recognise Local Authorities as Key Partners
Municipalities are central to waste collection and citizen engagement, yet their role is not clearly defined in the proposed EPR framework. CEMR urges mandatory collaboration between Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs) and municipalities to ensure streamlined collection systems and cohesive public communication.
c) Ensure Full Cost Coverage
EPR funding must comprehensively cover not only infrastructure and operational costs, but also continuous public communication campaigns, which are critical to successful sorting and reuse. Additionally, producers should bear partial responsibility for textiles that remain in mixed waste streams, incentivising better product design and citizen behaviour.
d) Include Unsold Textiles in EPR Obligations
To align with the Ecodesign Regulation for Sustainable Products, which bans the destruction of unsold goods, CEMR advocates for including unsold textiles in the scope of EPR. A clear definition should be added to the directive to ensure these products are managed responsibly and transparently.
4. Introduce Clear Measures to Prevent Textile Waste
Overproduction and fast fashion are key drivers of Europe’s textile waste crisis. The revised directive must go beyond waste management and address prevention at the source. This includes incentives for sustainable design, extended use, reuse systems, and anti-overproduction regulations.
Case Study: France’s “Refashion” EPR Scheme
France’s pioneering EPR program, “Refashion,” offers a proven model. Since 2007, it has tripled the collection and recycling rates of post-consumer textiles. In 2020 alone, it engaged over 4,000 producers and allocated €36 million toward sorting, community projects, and innovation. Nearly 40% of textiles placed on the market were collected, up from 27% in 2013, with a 90% material recovery rate and 50% direct reuse.
This success story demonstrates how producer accountability, coupled with strong public-private cooperation, can drive significant progress. However, challenges such as labour-intensive sorting and the difficulty of recycling blended fibres remain and must be addressed at the EU level.
Conclusion
With the right revisions, the updated Waste Framework Directive can become a powerful tool in reshaping Europe’s approach to textile waste. CEMR urges EU institutions to act decisively by aligning deadlines, empowering municipalities, and ensuring that both social and environmental responsibilities are shared equitably across the textile value chain. Only then can the EU truly advance toward a circular, fair, and sustainable future.
For more information, contact:
Advisor – Environment and mobility
